Bearded Dragon Lighting, Temperature & Feeding Calculator
Calculate correct UVB lighting, basking temperatures, and feeding amounts for bearded dragons at any life stage — the most commonly kept reptile in the UK.
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Bearded Dragon Care Guide
What do I need to know about Temperature Requirements?
Bearded dragons are from arid Australia and require a strong thermal gradient. Basking spot: juveniles 38-42°C, adults 40-42°C — essential for digestion. Digestion stops below 35°C and food rotates undigested, causing bacterial infection (impaction). Cool side: 25-30°C — allows thermoregulation. Night temperature: minimum 18°C (above 15°C is acceptable short-term). Measure with a digital probe thermometer AT the surface of the basking spot, not the air temperature — surface and air temperatures
What should I know about UVB Lighting — Non-Negotiable?
Bearded dragons require high-intensity UVB to synthesise vitamin D3 for calcium metabolism. Without adequate UVB: metabolic bone disease (MBD) — soft, rubbery bones that fracture, permanently deformed limbs, seizures, death. It is the most common preventable disease in captive reptiles. Recommended UVB: Arcadia Dragon 12% T5 HO or Exo Terra Solar Extreme 12% T5. Distance from bulb (T5 HO 10-12%): basking site should be 25-40cm from the bulb. Replace UVB bulbs every 6-12 months — they lose UVB output well before the visible light dims, so a bulb can look fine while providing little to no actual UVB.
What should I know about Feeding by Life Stage?
Hatchlings and juveniles (0-12 months): 70-80% insects, 20-30% vegetables. Feed insects 2-3 times daily (as many as they will eat in 10 minutes). Dust every feed with calcium (without D3), every other feed with a multivitamin. Adult (18+ months): 70-80% leafy greens, 20-30% insects. Feed greens daily, insects 2-3 times per week. Best insects: black soldier fly larvae (highest calcium-to-phosphorus ratio), dubia roaches, crickets. Avoid waxworms and mealworms regularly (high fat). Best greens: collard greens, mustard greens, and dandelion greens are excellent calcium-rich staples that should form the bulk of a bearded dragon's vegetable intake.
What should I know about Common Husbandry Mistakes?
Under-sized enclosure: adults need minimum 120×60×60cm, ideally 150×60×60cm. Beardies grow up to 50-60cm and are active during daylight. Cohabitation: males are territorial and will fight — even females can be stressed together. Keep singly. Wrong substrate: loose sand causes impaction in juveniles (sand impaction is life-threatening). Use ceramic tile, slate, or paper for juveniles. Adult beardies on sand: large particle reptile sand only, not builders sand or calcium sand. Inadequate hide: a cramped or exposed hide leaves a dragon feeling constantly vulnerable, which can lead to chronic stress even when every other husbandry element is correct.